Why is it so cold inside in winter?
The short answer
Thermal mass works both ways. The thick rammed-earth walls that keep riads gloriously cool in summer absorb cold in winter and radiate it inward. Marrakech nights drop to 5–8°C from November through February. Most traditional riads weren't built with heating. The well-managed ones have invested in it since — but not all of them, and not equally.
You packed for Africa and you're wearing every layer you brought to bed. Nobody mentions it. It's the thing about Morocco that never makes the brochure.
The irony is that the same thick walls that made your riad feel like a cool dream in August are doing this to you now. Rammed earth, stone, tadelakt, layer upon layer of plaster — these materials absorb whatever temperature surrounds them and release it slowly. In summer, the courtyard acts as a convection chimney, pulling cool air through while the walls hold the night's chill deep into the afternoon. It's ancient engineering and it's brilliant. But thermal mass doesn't do favourites.
From November through February, Marrakech nights drop to 5–8°C. The walls drink that cold all night and breathe it inward through the day. The courtyard that ventilated so beautifully in July? Now it's a funnel for freezing air. Those zellige floors you photographed? Ice rink. The open galleries, the broken window panes, the gaps under doors — every charming imperfection becomes a draught. The building is maintaining perfect thermal stability. It's just that the stable temperature is 12°C.
Traditional riads weren't built with heating because Marrakech winters were historically endured, not engineered against — blankets, wool djellabas, mint tea, and proximity to other humans. Central heating is rare in medina properties. Retrofitting radiators into 200-year-old walls with no ductwork and irregular layouts is expensive and complicated. Many places still rely on portable heaters that take the edge off but won't transform the room.
The happy ending: this has changed enormously. Well-loved riads now have underfloor heating, proper radiators, heated towel rails, double glazing. The question that experienced winter visitors ask is not "is there heating" — it's *what kind* of heating. The answer tells you everything about how that place is run. November through February is when the difference between a riad that's cared for and one that's merely decorated becomes impossible to hide.
What experienced visitors figure out: layers, warm socks, a scarf good enough for dinner. Upper-floor rooms are noticeably warmer — heat rises, and rooftop suites catch afternoon sun. South-facing rooms with direct sunlight turn glorious during the day. And a hammam in January isn't a tourist experience — it's a rescue mission. You'll emerge reborn.